As I am taking a breath here in the Caribbean sea, I still want to document the undocumented I saw in Central America. In Mexico near the Guatemalan border, I started to see some marching people, never in big groups, certainly no caravans, more like extended families. People marching in pairs or threes, carrying small bags and young children, older kids are trotting along their parents. Obviously they’re migrants, going north but who knows from where? I saw a few black people also, probably Haitians on the run. That was the extent of diversity, Panama has a more varied population, not a lot of blondes though. At the border town with Guatemala, they were a lot of Georgians, mostly men, they seemed to be stuck there at that hotel, smoking cigarettes in the parking lot and speaking with that Russian mob sounding language, looking idle and bored. I saw the same group of men when I arrived in with America, they were watching me unload the bags and approached, started small talk of the where are you from category, that’s how I knew they were from Georgia. The same group was still there, still smoking in the parking lot the next morning when I left.

I was talking about the sameness of landscapes, scenery, foliage, I couldn’t really tell the differences between countries, same food, same road conditions, same weather really, since Queratero it’s been hotter and hotter, this is permanent summer, quite humid too. I’ve never mind this, so that’s cool. The only noticeable things, I see them from my seat while riding, changes in road signals, different police forces. The most shocking looking cops were in Mexico, they ride in the back of pickup trucks customized with seating for 6 in the bed, and always one fierce looking soldier holding the heavy machine gun on a turret above the cab of the truck. They’re all in camouflage fatigues, armed to the teeth, wearing black ski masks under their helmets, patrolling every city and at every road checkpoints, looking all menacing and lethal. In Costa Rica, it was quite funny to see them in pairs on a small motorcycle, the guy seating behind the driver holding a short machine gun upright as if, you drive, I’ll shoot them! Seemed a little embarrassing to me, what? They can’t afford to buy them each their own motorcycles? I saw a couple of these couples in Panama as well, different color uniforms, but same principle, 2 up on a small bike. I was really fortunate in Panama, I avoided getting fines for speeding, somehow I kinda smelled them a mile away and always reduced my speed before coming up to a turn where these guys were hiding, radar guns in hand, they were quite a few and I can’t explain why my inner 6^th sense made me slow down at every perfect spot…

You’ve all seen these guys in American big cities at traffic lights with their squeegees, ready to pounce on your windshield for a quick tip. Well it turns out, it’s a common practice, all over Mexico and in central America. You’ve got to be careful, specially on a bike, to jostle between all the squeegee guys and the jugglers at busy intersections, I’ve seen some throwing swords in the air, dressed as clowns, amazing ephemeral performances, artists living on propinas at every crossroads… All the way until Costa Rica, there are also all these alternate transportation options that you can study with interest if that interests you. People on the move have all kinds of transportation options down here. You see people waiting for a ride, sometimes it’s for a bus, sometimes a pedicab, sometimes these funny looking little tricycle trucks, at the entrance of every medium size city. And then you see what’s probably outlawed in the US, the pickup trucks with standing people in the back, 12 to 18 deep, whole families with men going to work, a wedding party in the back of a truck once, white vail flowing in the wind and all.

I spent 5 nights in Panama City, the hotel was nice and clean and cheap with decent wifi. I took advantage of it and worked my butt off on actual work. A few more details to take care of and I’m home free. I got America new shoes, having pre-ordered tires a few months back, and got her on a palette at the airport, ready for her upcoming flight to Colombia. I’ll fly to Bogotá when our sailing vessel reaches Cartagena. Of course I went to see the Panama Canal, the Imax movie was worth it for the history and the scope of these amazing works, and not seeing the canal would have been antisocial… I almost got arrested in Panama City, this was during the carnival, and I was stopped by the military police trying to leave the old section of town after a real authentic Panamanian dinner at this recommended restaurant. I was told that I was supposed to carry my passport, the photo of it in my phone apparently not sufficient. The guy wanted $150 as a fine or bribe? I stood my ground and refused to pay, they kept my driving license a long time, but steadfast I stayed and won that war of nerves. I was free to go finally, can’t stand corruption. After that incident, I remained in the confines of the hotel surroundings, found a Chinese restaurant nearby, the worst ever, but I got fed. Made my last preparations for the cruise, separating newly washed clothes and strict essentials in the boat bag, everything else is attached to America and will fly to Bogotá. We were told that the cruising ship will arrive on the 27^th, or possibly the 28^th? So I booked my flight from Cartagena to the Colombian Capital for March 1^st.

Ok, so I can write right here. Found a little made up desk in this mahogany habitat… Today’s been amazing. I had been told to be ready for: pickup at your hotel by 5:00am! I was outside at 5:02 and the guy was there to greet me. I was the first in the big SUV in a round of pickups, next were a young couple from England traveling together, nice, they’re on the road for a year and that’s some memory to be made here! Bravo, they’re bringing a lot of beers with them, and then another couple from Germany, in their forties I guessed, but I guessed wrong, they’re in their fifties, they came to escape the brutal weather in Europe. Another pick up, another young backpacking couple from Holland, the car is getting full and cramped. A stop was made at a supermarket, dozens of cars full of tourists, everyone buying booze and beers and essentials for their boat rides. It seems like a major industry. There are indeed a lot of day boat excursions offered daily from Panama City, everyone is going to El Porvenir where day boats and others are waiting for their charge. A young shy girl from Germany, Christy, lots of tattoos and piercings, joined us to round this up. After a bumpy 2 hours on the road, crossing the isthmus from sea to sea, going thru a natives reservation of some sort, we pay our fees to the tribe, and arrive at a river bank, that river goes right into the sea. We’ve arrived! A young backpacking French guy joins our speedboat. Introductions are made, we’re all going to be on the same boat, the Sophia. Our native speedboat captain is determined and fast, in a less than 45 minute high speed chase on the choppy grey sea, we arrive at this beautiful ship, the Sophia. We all jump ships, crawling into this beautiful white 2 masts 47 feet sailboat.

Andre, the captain is from Colombia, his crew of 3 beautiful young ladies, or seamen as they are called complete the boatload. We are installed in our cramped quarters, I take a lower bunk bed, less rolling at night I’m told. Aria, Andre’s dog is very friendly and everyone wants to pet her. We are all starting to getting to know one another, at least the first names for now. Breakfast is served, it must be 10:30 or so, I’m taking my cheap watch off, I wont need that for 5 days!

That first day on the boat was great, even though it’s kind of windy and the sun is playing hide and seek among the clouds above. I’m joining in the fun as Alexa, the first mate who seems to be in charge of all domestic issues, invites me to snorkel with them. Most everybody jumped in and we swam towards the reef. Louison, the 26 years old french guy keeps up with me, the only one I must say, to swim that far away, but I’m a little disappointed, the sea is kinda cloudy, few fishes, and they’re not that colorful… It’s true that the last time I snorkeled I was in Tahiti, hard to beat those crystalline blue and turquoise warm waters, a real aquarium in their coral gardens… Anyway, that was a lot of swimming, fortunately Andre and Alexa came to scoop us up with the dinghy there in the yonder, I had my exercise for today. The sea there is extremely salty I remarked.

A wonderful lunch was had on the deck, this crew is doing everything, the cooking, the serving, the cleaning, we don’t have to lift a finger, when we’re trying to help, they say, oh we got that… Amazing kindness and sweetness all around. I can get used to that. There are a few little islands around, and Andre, the dog Aria and myself went to one of these islands. Andre seems to know everyone, old women with tribal tattoos, they are the Kuna people, thin black verticals lines running through their noses to the chin, smile at me. I see a small baby girl a few months old and she’s already got the distinctive vertical tattoo…

I’m offered a few puffs with the crew, the mood is fantastic! Everyone is chill and relaxed, some do kayak, some swim around, play on the beach of the nearby island… The night come down early, for dinner we’re all going ashore, a couple of round trips with the small dinghy. Incredibly good lobsters! Lots of them, I had three, so much good food on this remote island at the end of the world… The crew is working hard, everything, the table, the plates, the food, must be lugged in and out of the boat. Jokingly I tell them, not bad for the first day! Indeed, this is even better than what I had imagined with my habitual optimistic outlook … Damn, life is good! Everyone is super friendly, I crack open the bottle of rhum I brought for the crew! The Germans above prepare Gin and Tonics, the mood gets even better! I’m being put in charge of the music and my favorite playlists are being played on the boat stereo system. Cool, everyone seems to like what’s playing. This could be way worse!

It took a while to get acclimated to the small bunk bed, but I dreamed I was sleeping I guess. Fuddling in the dark I had to get up when nature called, I went outside in the middle of the silent night, it was raining a bit, but warm sweet rain, light winds, it was eerie, 12 souls soundly asleep below, not a noise but the gentle water clapping on the hull of Sophia. My first sailing trip, so far so good!

The second day was as good, and so was the third. Just bliss, no shoes, swimsuit all day, no shower, 3 great and healthy meals a day, the beer stash is dwindling but fortunately we can buy some on the islands we visit. Barbecues on the beach, swim, snorkel, eat, rinse and repeat…

On the 3rd day, he rose again right? We were supposed to set sail towards Colombia but our captain advised us that because of the winds, we’re going to stay another day in the islands, we’ll be arriving 1 day late. Somehow I feel we’ve gained an extra day of sun and fun. We finally heard the engine start and Sophia glided towards the open seas. The waves were not that gigantic, but strong and constant, the wind pushing us portside the whole way, looking at the flags flying strongly South I guess? Sophia became a rollercoaster ride, I’m banging on everything, holding for dear life when heading to the head! So, yes it was 2 full days and nights of up and downs. My bed was thrown on the floor of the boat, otherwise I would have flown from the mattress I think. So the actual transportation phase of the trip was not pleasant for me, just waiting to arrive. A few passengers, ok 2 girls who’ll remain anonymous, threw up quite a bit over the high side of Sophia, most everyone stayed hidden in their crevices for the whole sailing time, I was fine, just bored, not much into small talk, I plunged into my music, streaming until the phone died before trying to go to sleep…

And then, it was the morning of the 5th day, and suddenly the winds ceased their bothers, and a huge city appeared in front of the ship. It looked that seeing New York from a distance, huge skyscrapers, lots of them, all white, guarding the entrance of the natural harbor of Cartagena. We’re all excited to finally arrive, the buildings grow even larger as we’re entering the harbor, we reach the older historical part of town, the anchor drops. We’ve arrived, my first time in South America! Yay ! Antarctica is the only continuent I haven’t been to yet, that can wait, I’ve seen penguins before!

Our fearless captain took the dinghie with all our passports to get them stamped, easy immigration process! However he came back a bit later and we learn that this big cruise ship arriving at the same time has priority over us with the immigration officers so we’ll get the passports back later on this evening. This will be the occasion for a nice farewell cocktail before everyone scatters off to their respective itineraries. We leave the boat, lots of hugs and promises to keep in touch somewhere in this world, and this is repeated in the old town this evening, and yes the cocktails were delicious! Everything is cheap in Colombia, I am becoming even more stingy and head for a youth hostel, Louison is meeting his girl after a month soloing in Central America, I asked him: do you think they accept older people in there? He laughs, I’m assigned a bed in a 7 person’s dormitory, I’m giddy and blissfully enjoy a cold shower and a cold beer, guess which order? So happy to be connected again to the lovely wife, no I’m not dead, there really was no signal for all this time, so happy to say I love you again… OK, tomorrow new adventures, I’m flying to Bogotá, o how I miss America, the bike…